In April 2021 I went to Hawaii with two new friends for 9 days and we packed in a bunch of adventures to really make it count! We flew into Maui to start before then heading to the Big Island of Hawaii and then finishing at gorgeous Oahu. Below you can expect to find our itinerary and my experience of all our excursions along with photos (some professional, some not) and links to everything... including youtube videos I made of some adventures!
Table of Contents
ʻĪao State Monument
Haleakalā National Park at sunset
Haleakalā Bike Tour
Waihee Ridge Trail
Road to Hana
sunrise swim
Volcanoes National Park at night
Night Swimming with Manta Rays
Volcanoes National Park day hikes
Punalu'u Black Sand Beach
Mauna Kea
Maunawili Falls Trail
Shark Cage Diving
Koko Head Railway
MAUI
Lodging
We stayed in two airbnbs: here's a link to the first (north side of island, closer to road to Hana)
here's a link to the second (I'm not actually sure why we decided to move).
Day 1 Itinerary:
We're in Maui!!!! We couldn't check in to our airbnb til a little later so after grabbing our rental car we went to go hiked ʻĪao State Monument. It was the perfect introduction to Maui because it gives a little history to the island while also providing gorgeous views. Apparently the trail we did is now closed... here is the all trails link. You get to the "end" and go past the railing to continue on well marked trail for about another mile. When we did the hike there were lots of other hikers and even a boy playing guitar to serenade our halfway point. I do not recommend ever going off trail as leave no trace is incredibly important.
After getting settled, we made our way to Haleakalā National Park to watch the sun set. I was COMPLETELY in awe. The drive up to the top of the volcano was a little scary (I was the driver) as there are some areas with no guardrails and a steep drop if you swerve... but going up and up and up ABOVE THE CLOUDS to reach 10,000 feet where the parking lot is had me speechless! I've never seen a cloud inversion before. Once we reached the summit it was just a short walk to the overlook to view the crater edge. While we didn't hike down into the crater, if I ever go back that's definitely on the list- it's called the Sliding Sands Trail and is an 11 mile hike. Apparently it's more popular to watch the sunrise from the cater but I say ditch the clouds (and the additional fee) and go at sunset! It was magical.
Day 2 Itinerary:
The next morning I woke up for sunrise and drive to the beach solo to soak in our second day on the island. It's nothing extraordinary to share, but I love the photos!
The main thing on our agenda for day two was the Haleakala bike tour!!! There are a few companies that offer the experience, but we went with bike Maui. You start in town at their shop and then they shuttle you along with all the gear you need (bike, helmet), to Haleakala. We actually start outside of the official park line so didn't go all the way up to the 10,000 feet mark, but I think there is one tour that does offer that. The bus ride to the volcano itself was totally worth it because he gave us such a thorough history of the island along the way!
So we got dropped off and then the ride down was a self guided tour so you could go at your own pace. We just had to make sure we remembered the route back!! I've inserted some photos below as well as a youtube video of [some of] the ride. It was a truly gorgeous way to see more of the island.
After the bike tour we relaxed, went then watched the sun set at Waipuilani Park before ending the night at Maui Brewing Co.
Day 3 Itinerary:
Day three was a big day. We started the morning off hiking the Waihee Ridge Trail before trying to tackle the road to Hana. In hindsight I definitely would have dedicated the whole day to exploring the road to Hana.
That's not to say the Waihee Trail wasn't worth it though because IT WAS!! It was absolutely stunning and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. However it got to a point where we hiked into the clouds and the weather didn't clear up so we never had a view from the very top. But the halfway point was awesome. Since it was kinda crappy weather it was extremely muddy and I slipped and fell a few times ruining my white shorts haha. I definitely recommend this hike! If you plan do go definitely get there early as we got one of the last spots in the tiny parking lot.
Want to know what I'm shooting with? Here's a blog that outlines every piece of gear I use as a photographer!
The Road to Hana is 60+ miles of beaches, waterfalls, and views that is extremely winding with one-lane hairpin turns. Definitely a white knuckle drive! Both Olivia and Victoria felt car sick at some points so at least I was driving. We looked up a few spots we wanted to stop ahead of time and then we also downloaded the Shaka Guide app from the Apple store that proved to be super beneficial! Definitely recommend getting the app if you go because it is a GPS based app that tells you what's coming up along your route and also explains some history of the island. Plus, there's no cell service along the route so it's nice to listen to something!
There are a few spots that you need advanced reservations for, like the main attraction black sand beach Waiʻānapanapa. So make sure to plan ahead of time!
Halfway along the road to Hana there are some food trucks that serve banana bread, refreshments, and even vegan ice cream!! Make sure to bring cash.
SOOOO although I said that we would've dedicated a whole day to explore the Road to Hana, I would never do it again haha. I don't think the effort of the drive was worth it for the places we saw, or maybe the drive just ruined my memory of it because not only was it scary, but I actually collided with one of the cement guard rails so partially wrecked the rental car *cries*. GET RENTAL INSURANCE IF DRIVING THE ROAD TO HANA IN MAUI!!!
Day 4 Itinerary:
Our time in Maui has come to an end. Victoria and I woke up early to watch the sunrise and take a quick dip before cleaning up and heading to the big island of Hawaii!
BIG ISLAND HAWAII
Lodging
We stayed at one airbnb the whole time; The Volcano Home (as seen on the Discovery Channel!). The house was SO COOL and unique and our host Joshua could not have been nicer. I 100% recommend staying here if you visit.
They call it a big island for a reason!! We landed in Kona and then drove about two hours to our airbnb on the other side of the island, closer to Volcanoes National Park. The different amounts of terrain we went through was incredible! Again we were above the clouds in some parts as we passed from lush greenery to absolutely barren with volcanic rock. There was absolutely nothing out there. No gas stations, no convenience stores, nothing! I was so surprised. The only thing was Mauna Kea (which I talk about later).
Day 4 Itinerary, continued
On our first night we visited Volcanoes National Park at night to try to catch a glimpse of the active lava flow. At the time there were a few vantage points accessible for viewing the new eruption and we chose the Waldron Ledge along Crater Rim Trail.
While we weren't able to actually peer down into the crater to view flowing lava with our own eyes (you'd need a helicopter for that), since it was nighttime we could see the red glowing reflection of the lava on the smoke/clouds above!! SO cool!!! I'm pretty proud of this long exposure snap I got with my camera handheld (def bring a tripod next time!).
I'd be remiss if I didn't include a little bit about the history of the volcanic activity here so HERE WE GO:
From the NPS website, it says" Kīlauea volcano is one of the most dynamic landscapes on Earth. As one of the most active volcanoes on the planet, it is constantly reshaping itself. Yet even by its own standards, 2018, 2019, and 2020 have been remarkable for the changes that have taken place at Halemaʻumaʻu crater."
2018:
The decade old lava lake drained out of the crater
Earthquakes
The summit caldera collapsed 1,600 feet and doubled it's diameter
2019:
the crater began to fill with water to a final depth of 160 feet (the first lake of water at Kīlauea in modern history)
2020:
The water in the crater vaporized as an effusive eruption commenced and lava cascaded into the crater.
Wthin one week, nearly 600 feet of lava took the water's place.
Obviously there's way more that goes into it, and expands outside of just this one crater but I thought it was so cool! You should definitely go to the NPS website or elsewhere and check out the photos to see how dramatic the landscape changed.
Day 5 Itinerary:
After pretty much non-stop adventures we took the day pretty easy and relaxed at Hapuna Beach; one of the highly rated white sand beaches. It was pretty beautiful but I didn't take any photos - too much relaxing.
And then the night of day 5 brought me my most memorable experience of the entire trip: night swimming with manta rays.
Night swimming with manta rays in Kona, Hawaii was the highlight of my vacation!! We boarded a vessel in Kona and they drove us for about half an hour along the coast to get to the area where the rays feed. Although we drove quite a while, at the end you're no more than a mile off the coast. Thank god too because I think all of us had been a little terrified at the thought of swimming in the open ocean at night. So the manta rays come to this one specific area to feed and if I'm not mistaken I think it might be one of the biggest communities of rays in the world.
So one we get to our destination we all were given snorkeling gear and hopped in the water. We then swam over to a surfboard that was anchored to the boat that had PVC pipe arranged so that we could all hold on to it and then put our feet up on pool noodles so we were floating on the surface of the water. The underside of the surfboard had blue lights shining down into the water which attracts the organisms the manta rays eat. So in order to eat, the rays would rise to the surface of the water, swimming in arc like motions creating quite a show. At times were just inches away from our bodies (you can check it out in the video I've linked below). We were wearing wet suit shirts so that they wouldn't absorb any harmful chemicals from our skin. Likewise, it is incredibly important to not reach out and touch the rays.
We were out there for about half an hour (or until we got too cold and retreated to the boat). The entire experience was freaking amazing. The tour staff was also the best and light hearted, making jokes and keeping everyone safe. Not to mention they had a ton of free snacks and refreshments to get sea out of your mouth afterwards.
Day 6 Itinerary:
Day 6 was our last day on the big island. We went back to Volcanoes National Park to explore it in the daylight but in order to fit in more adventures we didn't spend TOO much time here. I'd like to go back to see more! In addition to the park we also went to a black sand beach and Mauna Kea.
Back at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park the few day hikes we did do, aside from Waldron Ledge the few days before (the lava photo), was Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube) and Keanakāko'i Crater. The lava tube was super cool!! You walk though a rainforest to get to the tube where lava had flowed 500 years ago. From the Keanakāko'i Crater hike you're able to look down into the crater from the edge. To get down into the crater you'd take the Kīlauea Iki trail to descend 400 feet and then walk along the hardened lava lake from the 1959 eruption which would have been awesomeeee and I wish we did it.
Since we weren't able to gain entry at the Waiʻānapanapa black sand beach in Maui, Punalu'u Beach Park in Hawaii was our last opportunity to visit a black sand beach on our trip! I was pretty unprepared for how abrasive the sand was - you'll get a foot exfoliation for sure! I'm super happy we made the trek as we got to witness a few sea turtles doin their thing and felt a burst of creative energy so asked Victoria to model for me haha.
On the way back to our airbnb we stopped off at Mauna Kea. Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano and the highest point in Hawaii. We did try to visit one day for sunset, but did not have the proper vehicle to access the road to the top, nor did we have enough time for the required one-hour wait at 9,000 feet to acclimate to the altitude before you're allowed to continue the accent. Mauna Kea is one of the only places you're able to drive from sea level to 14,000 feet so the risk for altitude sickness is legit! Tourists are drawn to visit because it is one of the best places in the world to star gaze as it has one of the clearest skies in the world.
OAHU
Day 7 Itinerary:
Lodging
We stayed at this aribnb / condo . It was nice enough and a pretty good distance from restaurants and hikes.
In Oahu we went to the beach a bunch (how could you not), especially Ala Moana Beach Park which was nearby the condo.
On the first day we went to Maunawili Falls Trail in the Waimanalo Forest Reserve (which apparently is closed now due to realignment (?)). I hope it does reopen because it's such a beautiful hike! I hiked this for the first time back in 2017 and then took Victoria on our trip to experience it again and so we could jump off the rocks over the waterfall! It's a manageable hike with just about 3 miles round trip and no real strenuous elevation gain. It does require you to cross a few streams though and can get fairly muddy. So it's good to be prepared with your footwear. Plus, if you want to jump into the waterfall at the end you'll want to have a towel and unless you don't mind hiking back soaking wet.
Day 8 Itinerary:
SH-SH-SH-SHARKKKK DIVING!!!!
This was an awesome experience! I felt toooootally safe. I got my tickets through Shark Tours Hawaii off the coast of Haleiwa in Oahu and they had an incredible crew that kept us entertained and safe. I did this excursion solo because tickets sold out so it was great to have such friendly people working. The boat used for the tour follows the same route, and uses the same engine, as crabbing boats. The fishermen throw "bad" crabs overboard during their hauls so when the sharks hear our boat motor they come over in search of food. There was NO chumming of the water. Sharks are nocturnal by nature, but must continue moving in order to get oxygen. So during the day, as you'l see in the video below, they're in "low power mode", and supposedly less dangerous. While they swam near us, they never got too close to the cage to feel threatening.
You hop into the cage from the boat (never swimming in open water) with the provided snorkeling equipment and then get to experience the sharks swimming around the cage. They're Galapagos sharks and some of them were up to 12 feet in length! The dive itself was pretty cool, but rough. At one point in the video you'll hear one of my cage companions saying she's dying lol. The water was choppy making the cage bob a lot. It was difficult to relax since the side of the cage was constantly banging into our heads and waves crashed over our snorkels resulting in getting sea water in our mouths. Whatever though still 10/10 would do again! My video below shows the whole process from being in the boat to underwater in the cage.
After the tour we all went shopping on the North Shore which has tons of cute little boutiques and touristy shops and made our way back along the coast stopping wherever looked interesting.
Later on I met up with a couple to photograph an engagement session while we hiked along the the Wiliwilinui Ridge Trail. I am in love with their photos!! Check them out on my blog Oahu Engagement Session | Mark + Taylor.
We all ended the day watching the sunset at the beach with a poke bowl (I haven't mentioned poke bowls enough throughout this blog but like..... DELISH. And since Mark + Taylor actually live in Hawaii they brought me to a local hole in the wall place to get it and holyy crap next level! I can't remember the name but it was near enough to Ala Moana Beach Park if you want to exercise your googling fingers.
Day 9 Itinerary:
Day 9 brings us to our last morning in Hawaii!! We woke up early to hike the Koko Head Railway which not only gets the heart pumping but results in a gorgeous 360 view at the top where you can see the Honolulu shoreline, Hanauma Bay, and parts of the Big Island.
The hike is made up entirely of 1000+ abandoned railroad ties the military used back in WW2 and is incredibly popular for both locals and tourists alike. You use the same route going up as you do down so be incredibly careful on the descent as part of the route bottoms out beneath the ties and you can drop through if you're not careful.
It's possible to hike back down along the ridge above rather than going doing the stairs. I've never done it, but would love to tackle it on my next visit to Oahu.
There's of course soooo much more that the Islands offer, but this is what we prioritized during our visit!!
I hope you were able to get some inspiration or learned something and got pumped for your next trip to Hawaii!
xo, Tam
